Ping Anser putters have been in production since 1966, and over those decades the name has appeared on dozens of different models. If you have one in your hands and you want to know exactly which model it is, you need a system.
I have been through this process more times than I can count, and the method I use relies on three things: what is stamped on the sole, what the head looks like from the top and the side, and the small production details like serial numbers and zip codes.
I am going to walk you through the exact steps I use so you can identify any Ping Anser putter with confidence.
Start with the Sole Stampings
The first place I look is the sole of the putter. Flip it over and clean off any dirt or tape. You are looking for three pieces of information: the model name, the patent numbers, and the serial number.
The model name is usually the most obvious thing. You will see either “ANSER” or “ANSER 2” or “ANSER 3” and so on. This is the quickest way to know which family you are dealing with. But you have to be careful. A putter that says “ANSER” on the sole could be an original Anser, an Anser 1, or even a reissue from the 1990s. The model name alone is not enough.
Next to the model name, you will often see patent numbers. The most common one on early Ansers is 3,042,405. If you see that patent number combined with “ANSER,” you are likely looking at a putter from the 1960s or early 1970s. Later models might have different patent numbers or none at all.
The serial number is the third piece of the puzzle. On early Ping Ansers, the serial number is usually a four- or five-digit number stamped directly into the sole. On later models, it might include letters. The format of the serial number can tell you what era the putter was made in, but I will get into that in a moment.
Look at the Head Shape and Neck
After you have read the sole stampings, turn the putter over and look at it from the top and from the face. The shape of the head and the type of neck are the most reliable way to tell the Anser models apart, because the stampings on the sole can be misleading or worn down.
Original Anser (Anser 1)
The original Anser putter from 1966 has a short flange that does not extend far behind the face. The toe is round and the heel is slightly squared off. It is heel-shafted, meaning the shaft enters the head at the heel. There is no alignment aid on the top line, and the cavity back has the word “Ping” in a script font. The head is made of manganese bronze, which gives it a dark brownish-gold color.
Anser 2
The Anser 2 looks very similar to the original Anser, but there are a few key differences. The flange is slightly longer, and there is often a single dot on the top line as an alignment aid. Some early Anser 2 putters do not have the dot, but most do. The sole will say “ANSER 2” clearly. The neck is still heel-shafted, but the offset is a little different from the original Anser.
Anser 3
The Anser 3 has a wider flange than the Anser 2, and the alignment aid is either two or three dots, depending on the production year. The head is generally larger and more square-looking from the top. It is still heel-shafted.
Anser 4
The Anser 4 is a compact head. It is shorter from heel to toe than the Anser 3, and the alignment aid is typically two dots. The most distinctive feature of the Anser 4 is that it looks center-shafted, but it is actually heel-shafted with a very short hosel. The head is more square than the earlier models.
Anser 5 and 6
These are later additions to the Anser family. The Anser 5 has a plumber’s neck, which is a straight hosel with a small bend near the ferrule. The Anser 6 has a flow neck, which curves smoothly into the head without a sharp bend. These models were introduced in the 1990s and are less common in the vintage market.
Use the Serial Number and Zip Code to Find the Year
Once you have the model name and the head shape confirmed, the next step is to figure out when the putter was made. This is where the serial number and the zip code come in.
Ping used a zip code system from 1966 to 1979. If you see a zip code on the sole of your Anser, you know it was made in that window. The zip code “85068” is the most famous one. It means the putter was made in Phoenix, Arizona, at Karsten Manufacturing’s original factory. But here is the thing: not all Ping Ansers have a zip code. Only certain models like the Anser, Zing, Cushin, and Anser 2 used the zip code system consistently. Other models might have a zip code or might not, depending on the production year.
After 1979, Ping switched to a serial-only system. The serial numbers became longer and often included letters. If your putter has a serial number that starts with a letter, it was probably made after 1979.
Here is a quick reference table for the zip code era:
| Zip Code | Approximate Years | Location |
|---|---|---|
| 85068 | 1966–1970 | Phoenix, AZ |
| 85008 | 1970–1975 | Phoenix, AZ |
| 85282 | 1975–1979 | Tempe, AZ |
Keep in mind that these are approximate ranges. The zip code alone cannot give you an exact year, but it puts you in the right decade.
Check for Special Marks That Indicate Collectible Models
Once you know the model and the era, you should check for additional stamps that can indicate a special edition or a custom shop putter. These are the marks that can make a putter significantly more valuable.
Look for the word “KARSTEN” stamped on the sole or the face. This usually indicates a putter that was made for Karsten Solheim himself or for tour players. Also look for “SCOTTSDALE,” which was used on putters made at the Ping Scottsdale facility in the 1990s and 2000s.
Another mark to look for is “BECU,” which stands for beryllium copper. Ping made a limited run of Anser putters in beryllium copper in the 1990s. These putters have a distinct reddish-gold color and are highly sought after. If you see “BECU” stamped on the sole, you have something special.
Finally, look for “TOUR” or “CUSTOM” stamps. These indicate that the putter was made for tour use or was modified by the Ping Custom Shop. Tour stamps are usually small and located near the neck or on the back cavity.
Common Mistakes People Make When Identifying Models
I have seen a lot of people get this wrong, and I want you to avoid the same pitfalls.
The most common mistake is confusing an early Anser 2 with an original Anser. The stamping on old putters can be very faint, and if the “2” is worn away, you might think you have an Anser 1. Always check the flange length and the alignment aid. If the flange looks a little longer than you expect, and there is a faint dot on the top line, it is probably an Anser 2.
Another mistake is assuming that a missing zip code means the putter is fake or from a later era. Not all Ping Ansers had zip codes. Some early models had a serial number but no zip code. And some models from the 1970s had a zip code but no serial number. The combination of marks is more important than any single mark.
The third mistake is falling for counterfeit putters. There are a lot of fake Ping Ansers out there, especially on auction sites. Look at the font of the stampings. Real Ping stampings are clean and consistent.
Fake ones often look sloppy or too deep. Also check the finish. Vintage Ping Ansers have a manganese bronze finish that develops a natural patina over time. If the finish looks too shiny or uniform, be suspicious.
Myth vs. Reality About Zip Code Dating
There is a persistent myth in the golf collecting community that you can date a Ping Anser by the zip code alone. People will say “85068 equals 1966” or “85282 equals 1975.” This is not entirely accurate.
The zip code was originally used for shipping purposes at the Karsten factory. It told the shipping department where the putter was made. Zip codes changed when the factory moved, but they did not change every year. A putter with the 85068 zip code could have been made in 1966, 1967, 1968, or even 1969. The zip code narrows down the range, but it does not give you an exact year.
Furthermore, some models used a zip code for a longer period than others. The Anser 2, for example, used the 85068 zip code from 1967 to 1972, while the Zing used it from 1968 to 1970. You have to combine the model with the ZIP code to get a more accurate date.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a Ping Anser 1 and Anser 2?
The Anser 1 has a shorter flange, no alignment line on the top, and a more rounded toe. The Anser 2 has a slightly longer flange, often has a single dot alignment aid, and the sole says “ANSER 2.” The offset is also slightly different between the two.
How do I find the serial number on my Ping Anser if it is faded?
Use a bright light and a magnifying glass. If the stamping is very shallow, you can rub a soft pencil over the area to reveal the indentations. Do not use anything abrasive, because you can damage the finish.
Are Ping Anser putters with the 85068 zip code valuable?
Value depends on condition, model, and rarity, not just the zip code. A 1966 original Anser in excellent condition with the 85068 zip code can be worth a lot. But a common Anser 2 from the same era in poor condition is not worth much. The zip code alone does not determine value.
How to identify a Ping Anser 2 from the 1960s?
Look for the original slim leather grip, no serial number or a very early four-digit serial number, and the “ANSER 2” stamping with patent numbers 3,042,405 and 3,138,373. The putter should also have the 85068 zip code on the sole.
What does “Ping Anser 4” mean?
The Anser 4 is a later model introduced in the 1970s. It has a compact head that is shorter from heel to toe, a more square shape, and typically two alignment dots. It looks center-shafted but is actually heel-shafted.